March 15, 2010
Join the conversation with Dining Editor Mary Brown Malouf
02/01/10
10:07 AM
On the Table

Dinner and movie: Victoria and the dumplings

By Mary Brown Malouf
02/01/10 - 10:07 AM
Dinner and movie: Victoria and the dumplings

Remember last week when I wished I could stop in at the new Copper Onion for some ricotta dumplings after seeing Imaginarium? (shudder)

Well, Saturday night, after seeing Young Victoria (I know, pretty stodgy, not even a Sundance flick. But the truth is, I have a very stodgy side), we did.

Stop in at Copper Onion.

We sat at the bar, he ordered a Booneville brew, I ordered a quartina of tempranillo and we watched as chef Ryan Lowder supervised and led his team of cooks through making our dinner.

Soon enough, five fat little dumplings arrived, the perfect foil to a salty, peppery arugula salad. He ordered the chicken potato soup and the beets; the soup was underseasoned, so he had it uncomplainingly replaced by exquisite mussels. We chatted with chef Ryan about why he'd moved back to Salt City from NYC, how he liked what was going on here food-wise, the beauty of his location, and where to find high-fat milk so he can make his own butter (like he makes the ricotta for my dumplings).

This is the real deal, folks. And I think it's going to be around for awhile. I may just have to go to the movies more often.
 

Reader Comments:
Feb 1, 2010 03:29 pm
 Posted by  Anonymous

Better the film be stodgy than the dumplings! Sounds like a perfect two-fer and I hear they're starting lunch this week.

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About This Blog

A lack of serious ambition, a love of cooking and a degree in Latin naturally led to a career in food writing for Mary Brown Malouf.

Her 25 years of experience has included stints as executive editor of D magazine in Dallas, Texas; executive editor at wine.com in Napa, California; and restaurant critic for The Salt Lake Tribune.

Now, she’s the dining editor for Salt Lake magazine, where she writes about the food scene in Salt Lake City and beyond. Check in regularly for the latest restaurant news, great products from local purveyors, and conversation about all things gustatory.

If you have news, tips or other information about the dining scene you'd like to share, email Mary.

 

 

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