March 11, 2010
Join the conversation with Dining Editor Mary Brown Malouf
01/14/10
01:06 PM
On the Table

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01/14/10 - 01:06 PM
Make reservations NOW

It's not exactly shocking news—Tipica's menu featuring nose-to-tail dishes like beef heart tartare would be a tough sell even in places with edgy palates like New York or San Francisco. In Salt Lake City, where we're still learning to eat stinky cheese, it took true evangelical zeal to present such an adventurous menu.

So, kudos to Matt Caputo and his dad, for taking a chance, and super-kudos to chef Adam Kreisel, whose self-appointed mission is to challenge local diners to try the new, unknown and slightly scary food on their plate. Don't know yet where he is going next, but he has contributed mightily to Salt Lake City's culinary education.

Tipica isn't exactly disappearing entirely. The name will change, and the meatball sandwich menu that Tony Caputo's has always served for lunch will be available into the evening in the same guerrilla restaurant space that housed Tipica. Added to that will be hot, rustic Italian dishes drawing from the shelves of the deli.

But if you've been meaning to check out Tipica, you just have a few weeks left.

Reader Comments:
Old to new | New to old
Jan 16, 2010 10:54 am
 Posted by  Anonymous

I love Caputo's and I am glad they are going back to doing what they do best. If I want nose to tail I will go to Incanto in SF.

Jan 18, 2010 08:40 pm
 Posted by  Anonymous

The problem with this rest. was that it was not really nose to tail. The few times I ate there was nothing more exciting than sweetbreads (wow how exotic). The menu was not really italian. There were a lot of first courses and a lot of second courses like pasta and risotto but that was it. No secondi. Nothing like an entree course. If this place had tried to actually be a true nose to tail rest. with a complete menu it might have struck a chord with salt lake foodies. As is it's too strange for your average salt lake family but not as good as cucina toscana for those of us who are diners.

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About This Blog

A lack of serious ambition, a love of cooking and a degree in Latin naturally led to a career in food writing for Mary Brown Malouf.

Her 25 years of experience has included stints as executive editor of D magazine in Dallas, Texas; executive editor at wine.com in Napa, California; and restaurant critic for The Salt Lake Tribune.

Now, she’s the dining editor for Salt Lake magazine, where she writes about the food scene in Salt Lake City and beyond. Check in regularly for the latest restaurant news, great products from local purveyors, and conversation about all things gustatory.

If you have news, tips or other information about the dining scene you'd like to share, email Mary.

 

 

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