March 12, 2010
Join the conversation with Dining Editor Mary Brown Malouf
On the Table

September 2008

Fungus festival

09/30/08

Fungus festival

Log Haven's chef celebrates fall with all kinds of mushrooms. Well, not ALL kinds...

Posted at 01:55 PM | Permalink | Comments: 0

Your own private buffalo hunt

09/30/08

Your own private buffalo hunt

There will be a buffalo roaming in Salt Lake City, starting Thursday. Find it and win a buffalo bill worth $100. Meanwhile, enjoy the taste of buffalo on the plate.

Posted at 12:05 PM | Permalink | Comments: 0

A fecund find

09/30/08

A fecund find

Driving down 1300 East the other day I finally stopped at Traces, a floral shop located in an old house. I was intrigued by a sign advertising herbs out front of the place.

I walked to the left side of the house, through the main gate, and entered a surprisingly large urban garden. In what must be a full extra plot (and now very valuable turf) where another house could stand, I found hedges and bunches and rows of vegetation -- from flowers to gourds -- basking in the hot Indian summer sun. There were even trellises with white Concord grapes dangling in the effulgent air.

I ordered a half-bag of Italian basil for a mere $3.

Instead of reaching to some grocery store-style...

Posted at 11:59 AM | Permalink | Comments: 0

Beehive gets crackerin

09/30/08

Beehive gets crackerin

Every great cheese needs a cracker. Now Beehive cheddar has one.

Posted at 10:10 AM | Permalink | Comments: 0

Really special specials

09/29/08

Really special specials

New Yorker is 30 years old, but our meal there Saturday night made my tastebuds tingle like they were born yesterday.

Posted at 10:27 AM | Permalink | Comments: 0

When sweet potatoes rule ...

09/26/08

When sweet potatoes rule ...

Driving in to the office the other morning, I noticed a sign that seemed to signal a trend that had played itself out: Arctic Circle now offers sweet potato fries.

Since the mid 90s, fried shoestrings and thick slices of this orange-hued tuber have been creeping out of the "swee'" potato's Southern-ish homeland and showing up on menus here and there across the West.

I first cottoned onto sweet potato fries at a cool little joint -- the Hob Nob -- in

Posted at 05:10 PM | Permalink | Comments: 0

Woktoberfest? Really??

09/25/08

Woktoberfest? Really??

Mandarin restaurant in Bountiful indulges in a little seasonally inspired cross-dressing.

Posted at 06:40 PM | Permalink | Comments: 1

Well-designed coffee

09/24/08

Well-designed coffee

25 Main serves good breakfasts in a cooler-than-St.George setting

Posted at 11:37 AM | Permalink | Comments: 0

Genius in our midst

09/24/08

Genius in our midst

A great occasion for toasting.

Posted at 11:19 AM | Permalink | Comments: 0

Everything old is new again

09/23/08

Everything old is new again

In short, St. George is not what you'd call trendy.

Posted at 09:20 PM | Permalink | Comments: 0

Congratulations, Bambara

09/23/08

Congratulations, Bambara

Good restaurants make good neighbors

Posted at 09:51 AM | Permalink | Comments: 1

Mex enough

09/23/08

Mex enough

Utah's version of Mexican food is ill-defined, but it can still taste good.

Posted at 09:40 AM | Permalink | Comments: 0

Red rock, white tablecloth

09/22/08

Red rock, white tablecloth

Everyone in town is from far away, except for us. Whether we're sitting in a cafe or riding the Zion shuttle, we hear German, French, English accents all around us. I wonder: can this account for the quality of the food?

Last night's dinner at Spotted Dog Cafe* featured an achiote-braised lamb shank with mint mashed potatoes and whole baby carrots on top of rosemary spaghetti squash, and a fillet of the inevitable farmed Utah trout, crusted with coriander, cumin and pumpkin seeds on wild rice. The vegetarian entrée (pictured), a tower of sliced, roasted vegetables based on a sweet potato and capped with a portobello, drizzled with basil oil, was gorgeous. Appetizers—tiny flatbreads with cauliflower purée...

Posted at 12:44 PM | Permalink | Comments: 1

Get the party started

09/22/08

Get the party started

 Okay, I have to admit that I had to miss the Iverson soiree, and just from reading, I don't know what some of these things are. Merlot sprouts??? Cork skewers?? (Could they mean corn??)

That's the joy of my job—you never stop learning. I'll do some investigative reporting on these items and let you know. Meanwhile, savor this:

Lump Crab and Avocado Puree
Minced beets, lemon oil

Broccoli Raab and Scallop Ravioli
Sauteed golden raisins, local honey, chive oil

Pork Tenderloin with a Red Beet and Balsamic Puree
Crisp bacon, sauteed arugula, and caramelized shallots

Rosemary Toast Points with Poached Quail Egg
Merlot sprouts, and a Stilton mousse

Cork Skewers of Sweet Potato Gnocchi
Roasted garlic, organic smoked...

Posted at 12:21 PM | Permalink | Comments: 0

Hallelujah! There's good food in Zion

09/22/08

Hallelujah! There's good food in Zion

I'm a National Park junkie, but I've always been disappointed that the Parks' supporting businesses, like restaurants, have not measured up to the glory of the setting. Maybe that's starting to change.

Posted at 09:23 AM | Permalink | Comments: 1

Good food is up to you

09/20/08

Good food is up to you

"Did Sysco contribute to the downfall of the small town cafe?" my traveling companion, the Salt Lake Crawler, asked me.

The question came after I was presented with a choice of desserts at the only diner in town: chocolate cream pie, lemon meringue pie or cheesecake "that we make right here." And where do the pies come from? "They're delivered." I don't actually know if they were delivered by Sysco or some other food distributor and I'm sure that if Sysco didn't deliver these pies, the cafe owners would find someone else to bake them, or even bake some themselves. So, no, I don't think Sysco, or any other food broker, is to blame. I think it's the American appetite for consistency; our rootlessness is at the root of the problem. We move around a...

Posted at 10:12 PM | Permalink | Comments: 0

Big Rock Candy not the sweetest

09/20/08

Big Rock Candy not the sweetest

Sitting at the Spring City Cafe this morning, we started talking with the folks next to us, which is what you do at a small-town countertop cafe and which is why drive-through breakfasts are contributing to the downfall of civilization.

Anyway, we were talking about food (of course) and our new friends said that they had eaten recently at Big Rock Cafe. Was it good? "Well...they're trying..." We took that as a positive.


So as we wound down Highway 89 towards Springdale, we pulled over at the Big Rock Candy Mountain, a taffy-colored hulk named after the Depression folksong. The cafe at its base was founded in...

Posted at 10:12 PM | Permalink | Comments: 0

The turkey trail

09/19/08

The turkey trail

Driving through Sanpete, huge turkey farms are the main roadside attraction.

Posted at 10:51 AM | Permalink | Comments: 1

Winder does the cooking for you, but you'll have to preheat

09/18/08

Winder does the cooking for you, but you'll have to preheat

The folks at Winder Farms gave us four samples of their new line of frozen prepared dinners, and I ate them all. A full review after the jump.

Posted at 01:18 PM | Permalink | Comments: 0

Welcome back, months with R's

09/18/08

Welcome back, months with R's

A friend reminds us of the further joys of seasonal eating.

Posted at 11:37 AM | Permalink | Comments: 0

Taste the new season at Tin Angel

09/17/08

Taste the new season at Tin Angel

It's not just the aspen leaves and heat relief that make me happy to see summer end. It's the switch from summer to winter food: fall is a great eating season. I'm just starting to get those change of menu notices in the mail; a lot of Salt Lake restaurants piggyback (an especially apt word in this case) their new autumn-flavored dishes onto fall Dine-O-Round. That's what Tin Angel chef-owner Jerry Liedtke (the "t" in whose name I consistently forget) has done.

So you can try the new seared and roasted achiote-rubbed pork loin with a white polenta cake and roasted green pepper mojo with seasonal baby vegetables with a seasonal green salad and orange caramel flan for just $30 at dinner—a great, get-acquainted price. But...

Posted at 04:09 PM | Permalink | Comments: 0

Grapes at Grappa

09/16/08

Grapes at Grappa

Great grapes and great wine meet on the table—and in your mouth, if you call soon—at Grappa on October 13.

Posted at 05:10 PM | Permalink | Comments: 0

Think you know about the birds and the bees?

09/16/08

Think you know about the birds and the bees?

In this case, birds and bees means beer and cheese, to be consumed for a good cause—an irresistable enticement.

Posted at 04:00 PM | Permalink | Comments: 0

Guerrilla dining: looking at food a whole new way

09/15/08

Guerrilla dining: looking at food a whole new way

A Talisker chef opened up a whole new kind of restaurant last week. It was highly successful and it's already closed. How does this add up? Jump with me.

Posted at 05:28 PM | Permalink | Comments: 0

Good things, strange packages

09/15/08

Good things, strange packages

I just received a rather strange package in the mail—a used box that once held envelopes, strapped with wide scotch tape. From the outside, it looked a lot like something my mother would send me; and even more so from the inside.

Posted at 09:25 AM | Permalink | Comments: 0

Buttered up

09/15/08

Buttered up

Along with fried everything, butter sculpture has become a staple attraction at state fairs, including Utah’s. Some of us can’t help but wonder, why?

Posted at 09:12 AM | Permalink | Comments: 0

For ladies—and gentlemen—who lunch

09/12/08

For ladies—and gentlemen—who lunch

After a hiatus of several years, Metropolitan is serving lunch again.

Posted at 07:58 AM | Permalink | Comments: 0

The judges were the real winners

09/09/08

The judges were the real winners

The 3rd annual Farmers Market Chef Showdown took place Saturday morning at the Salt Lake Farmers Market in Pioneer Park.

By 10:30 a.m., the competing chefs—Jerry Liedke from Tin Angel, Frody Volgger of Vienna Bistro and Chad Horton and Justin Shifflett from Metropolitan were already shopping the market for their groceries while Circus Brown from KRCL warmed...

Posted at 02:16 PM | Permalink | Comments: 1

Fifteen candles for Liberty Heights Fresh

09/08/08

Fifteen candles for Liberty Heights Fresh

Celebrating 15 years of good food calls for a celebration featuring good food. That’s the kind of Mobius-strip thinking that led to Steve Rosenberg’s paella party on the patio at Liberty Heights Fresh on Friday night.

Rosenberg founded Salt Lake’s epicurean boutique 15 years ago when “local” was not even a gleam in Michael Pollan’s eye and the store has been the go-to for area gourmets ever since, always on the cutting-edge of the food trends and consistently prompting impressed out-of-town visitors to comment, “You can get this in Salt Lake?”

Friday night Steve and the guys set up a mammoth paella pan—empty, I could have...

Posted at 02:10 PM | Permalink | Comments: 0

Zoo-la-la

09/05/08

Zoo-la-la

Chinese astrology may say it's the Year of the Pig, but to wildlife conservationists, it's the Year of the Frog.

And if you didn't know that when you showed up at the Hogle Zoo's annual Zoo-To-Do last night, you knew it by the time you left. Amphibians may not be the cuddliest of creatures, but last night they got enough love to make their cold blood warm. Pictures and information about frogs and toads all over the world adorned every bar and food table at the event, and there were a lot of them—Fleming's, ThaiFoon, Elizabeth's Tea Shop, Ruth's Chris, Finn's and lots of other area restaurants set up booths in the main plaza of the Hogle Zoo to feed the hordes of hungry zoo-supporters....

Posted at 12:00 AM | Permalink | Comments: 0

Chefs' Smackdown

09/04/08

Chefs' Smackdown

Only seven more Saturdays of Farmers Market to go, so be sure to take advantage of Utah's best food shopping while it lasts.

This Saturday, the Third Annual Chef's Showdown (or as I like to think of it, Chef's Smackdown) starts at 10:30 a.m. Chefs from Tin Angel, Metropolitan and Vienna Bistro will have one hour to shop the market for ingredients and one hour to prep and cook a three-course meal: appetizer or salad, main course and dessert.

Then it's time for me and my fellow judges (Bill Allred from X-96 Radio from Hell and Andrew Wallace...

Posted at 12:00 AM | Permalink | Comments: 0

Eat a peach. Or two.

09/04/08

Eat a peach. Or two.

Starting yesterday and going through September 6, they're celebrating Peach Days in Brigham City. Of course, there's a Peach Queen Pageant. There are also peach smoothies, peach shakes, peach ice cream, peach yogurt, and peach cobbler. Not to mention some seemingly irrelevant but evidently traditional dishes and events—Dutch oven pork and SCUBA burgers (I don't know what those are) and the Bonneville Rod and Custom Car Show.

Peach Days started in 1904, so it's entitled to its arcane traditions. A film festival is also mentioned on the Peach Days website, but I can't imagine...is this a festival of peach-themed movies? James and the Giant Peach? Peaches? Are there any other peach movies?

Posted at 12:00 AM | Permalink | Comments: 0

Beyond fried.

09/03/08

Beyond fried.

Shrimp is America's favorite seafood. We eat more of it than another swimmer in the sea. Here in Utah, Market Street restaurants serve more than 200,000 pounds of shrimp every year. And, starting yesterday, they're celebrating that fact with their annual Shrimp Festival, during which Market Street chefs go shrimp-crazy, coming up with an amazing array of new recipes.

Posted at 09:16 AM | Permalink | Comments: 0

09/02/08

How to Oktoberfest



Snowbird's annual Oktoberfest is underway through Oct. 5 and if you've never been to this beer-soaked event in Little Cottonwood Canyon here are a few things you need to know.

Get the cup. If you're dithering about dropping $10 on the souvenir plastic "stein," don't. A 16-ounce draft costs $6.50 and with the refillable stein you get 22 ounces for the same price. The festival boasts a wider range of microbrews than previous years, including some special seasonals courtesy of Wasatch. Tip: If you've attended in a previous year, try to dig up your old cup. It's refillable this year too.

Posted at 04:09 PM | Permalink | Comments: 0

09/02/08

Brasil, Utah-style



Downtown Salt Lake City offered up two big crowds Saturday afternoon.

Some favored more formal dress, including ties for the men and business-style dress suits for the women. And name badges and other insignia ... all flapping in the windy, 90-degree plus heat.

Others went for somewhat more skimpy sequined bikini tops and feather head dresses.

The first group encompassed attendees to the big USANA convention at the Energy Solutions Arena, all doing their vitamin-intensive business.

The second, more free-wheeling group was made up by the hundreds of participants and onlookers at the 2008 Utah...

Posted at 11:33 AM | Permalink | Comments: 0

About This Blog

A lack of serious ambition, a love of cooking and a degree in Latin naturally led to a career in food writing for Mary Brown Malouf.

Her 25 years of experience has included stints as executive editor of D magazine in Dallas, Texas; executive editor at wine.com in Napa, California; and restaurant critic for The Salt Lake Tribune.

Now, she’s the dining editor for Salt Lake magazine, where she writes about the food scene in Salt Lake City and beyond. Check in regularly for the latest restaurant news, great products from local purveyors, and conversation about all things gustatory.

If you have news, tips or other information about the dining scene you'd like to share, email Mary.

 

 

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