February 9, 2010
Join the conversation with Dining Editor Mary Brown Malouf
09/26/08
05:10 PM
On the Table

When sweet potatoes rule ...

09/26/08 - 05:10 PM
When sweet potatoes rule ...

Driving in to the office the other morning, I noticed a sign that seemed to signal a trend that had played itself out: Arctic Circle now offers sweet potato fries.

Since the mid 90s, fried shoestrings and thick slices of this orange-hued tuber have been creeping out of the "swee'" potato's Southern-ish homeland and showing up on menus here and there across the West.

I first cottoned onto sweet potato fries at a cool little joint -- the Hob Nob -- in Missoula, Montana back around '95. I even started making them myself.

But I never expected to see sweet potato fries on the menu of a fast food chain, even a small regional one Like Arctic Circle. It seems the trend has reached its full bloom.

I figured at first that sweet potato fries was a done item, but then went back to give AC's version a try.

As I got in line at the ordering counter, a gentleman in front of me was ordering for his family.

I heard his wife, seated nearby, ask a somewhat odd question of an AC employee:

"Are your sweet potato fries made of sweet potatoes, or just potatoes?"

After receiving the obvious answer -- sweet potatoes -- she gasped out at her hubby "Dick! Order some sweet potato fries!"

Now that's getting excited by a starch dipped in oil.

I next ordered some myself. Only one size, $2.49.

They were mid-sized, relatively crisp and not salted too much. (I would prefer mine a bit more brown, as it were.) All in all, they were pretty good as opposed to so many trends that get lamely cycled through fast food operations.

But I must say, that in Arctic Circle, one of the homes of fry sauce, I used ketchup.

With sweet potatoes, opting for the sauce would have been a saccharine travesty. The slight acid bite of ketchup was needed.

 

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About This Blog

A lack of serious ambition, a love of cooking and a degree in Latin naturally led to a career in food writing for Mary Brown Malouf.

Her 25 years of experience has included stints as executive editor of D magazine in Dallas, Texas; executive editor at wine.com in Napa, California; and restaurant critic for The Salt Lake Tribune.

Now, she’s the dining editor for Salt Lake magazine, where she writes about the food scene in Salt Lake City and beyond. Check in regularly for the latest restaurant news, great products from local purveyors, and conversation about all things gustatory.

If you have news, tips or other information about the dining scene you'd like to share, email Mary.

 

 

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