March 15, 2010

Dining

Stella Grill: A rising star

Good food in what seems to be a cursed location—we hope it sticks.

Stella Grill: A rising star
Adam Finkle

Stella!!!! I know it means “star” in Italian, but who doesn’t hear Brando’s voice bellowing through the French Quarter whenever they say that name?

Stella Grill, a newish café from Pub Group Restaurants—which owns Martine, Desert Edge and Red Butte Café—has a lot of the class and some of the brass of either free-association of its name.

Hip in a subdued, not-too-earthy kind of way, with glass cupboards over the bar and paned garage doors opening to the street, Stella would fit well into a more urban neighborhood.

The food is stylish but not precious; the wines by the glass are not your usual suspects. Morgan Valley lamb and pork cooked pink beat the rib-eye, though the hanger steak at lunch was nicely cooked and just the right size, paired with a piquant salad.

This part of Millcreek seems to be a hard section of Salt Lake for a restaurant to make it stick, but Stella Grill doesn’t demand much and delivers plenty. 4291 S. 900 East, SLC, 801-288-0051

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