Fresh and fanatical This is Italian like we haven't seen before in Salt Lake - big, bustling, new and attitudinous. Any red-checked visions of coziness vanish the minute you walk in. Its clean whiteness charms some, alienates others. The noise level destroys intimacy or inspires conviviality. The food is a fantasy of fresh simplicity or it's under-dressed. When it comes to a restaurant belonging to Eric de Bonis - when it comes to Eric himself - there's bound to be controversy. But we think Sea Salt's fresh and fanatical approach to cucina is fabulous.

Try this Gnocchi of fava beans, green onion and portabella, sage brown butter, chervil, chive 1709 E. 1300 South, 801-349-1480, seasaltslc.com