Talk about a new restaurant that was going to make its pizza entirely from scratch started circulating a year or so ago. And From Scratch participated in Salt Lake magazine's Tastemakers event last spring. But instead of pizza, From Scratch was serving salumi and cheese from its location at 62 Gallivan Ave.
Well, it takes longer to make things from scratch. And almost everything at From Scratch is–the mustard is made from scratch, the mozzarella is pulled in house, the butter is made in house. You get the picture.
But by far the most impressive thing about From Scratch is this:
It's an Austrian flour mill, one of only ten in the United States. From Scratch owner David Brodsky uses it to grind the flour for From Scratch pizza and the cornmeal to use under the pizzas. The red wheat comes from Central Milling.
Of course, it wasn't as simple as that.
Milling flour isn't just cooking–the Health Department was only one of Brodsky's worries. "The Fire Department wanted industrial ventilation at first, but when they realized what a limited amount we were milling, they settled for an air scrubber. The Health Department demanded a stainless steel mill, but because we were a restaurant, we fell under the Department of Agriculture."
And milling isn't that simple, either. From Scratch still supplements its homemade flour supply with flour from Central Milling because Brodsky cannot get all the bran out.
"But we're working on it."
Meanwhile, the pizza, which is the point of all this, is not Neapolitan style but baked at a lower temperature (about 450) for a longer time (about 9 minutes).
And it was terrific when I tried it in a strictly open, non-reviewable lunch on the very first day From Scratch was open.