Like La Caille, Tuscany trails remnants of its former glory now preserved as kitsch: Faux vines crawl over the ceiling and walls of the faux farmhouse. The dining rooms are romantically dim; the heavy LED-lit menus are helpful, if a little weird. Still, the place retains its charm, even if some of it is more corny than cutting edge.

There are parts of the menu, too, that never change—like the ginormous double pork chop, a massive amount of meat, but cooked to petal-pink and offset by balsamic-braised onions which provide the sweet touch so pleasant with pork. At the other end of the meal, the gargantuan piece of chocolate cake could easily serve four people. But some dishes are more to today’s taste, lighter, but distinctively Italian in their layers of intense flavors. A recent special of house made pasta mingled with roasted chicken and vegetables in a brown chicken jus was terrific. Lamb chops come with faro and beets instead of potatoes. Caesar salad had plenty of flavor punch from garlic and anchovies, but was made with a vinaigrette instead of the traditional, heavy egg-based dressing.

We were disappointed that Prosecco wasn’t available by the bottle; surely that’s a missed opportunity in these bubble-obsessed times, but the wine list is fine, if a little expensive. But the real treasure of Tuscany is its patio, one of the prettiest in a state filled with beautiful al fresco tables. Full of romantic nooks and crannies, shaded by big trees and nearby mountains, lingering over a plate of carpaccio in the fresh air here captures the spirit of Italian dining.

2832 E. 6200 South, SLC, 801-277-9919

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