Cold weather is tolerable, even embraceable in an emotional sense, if the sun is shining in a blue sky on clean white snow. Years ago, that was winter in Utah much of the time. But those days in Salt Lake City have disappeared under the greasy, burning gray weight of inversion and smog. I see one color out my office window: gray. Almost everyone I know suffers from SAD, seasonal affective disorder brought on by the absence of sunlight and, for me, the sad knowledge that our local governments are highly unlikely to do a damn thing about it. I’ve already bought all the full-spectrum light bulbs I can use.

So how to cheer up? Well, here’s what I did. I went to Freshies SLC for lunch and ordered The Real Mainah—a butter-toasted roll packed with fresh lobster meat. The roll is warm, the butter plenteous and the lobster sweet. It tastes just like a blue-sky summer and to fill out the fantasy, I had brown butter corn. Plus house-made strawberry ice cream for dessert. Shut your eyes and eat and the bad air disappears. Summertime in your mind.