Monday, April 19, 2021
Home Eat & Drink Mary's Recipe: It's Pie Time

Mary's Recipe: It's Pie Time



Chef Jeff Masten never meant to be king of pies. When he opened Left Fork Grill, he planned to serve cheesecake, pudding and layer cake along with pie as part of his comfort food menu. But word of his pie prowess spread, and he now serves 12 to 14 different pies every day. Savvy regulars know to get in orders for their favorite slice even before they’ve decided between corned beef hash or meatloaf for the main meal.

Chef Jeff Masten, the Pie Man
Tips from the Pie Man
  • Always use a glass pie plate, not metal.
  • If available, try to use MacIntosh apples.
  • After you lay the bottom crust in the pie plate, rap the pan sharply on the cutting board to make sure the dough is fitted to the plate.
  • Use unsweetened frozen fruit.
  • Use scissors to cut off the excess bottom crust and don’t cut off too much.
  • Brush the edge of the bottom crust with water before laying on the top crust to create a strong seal between the two.
  • Brush the top crust with an egg beaten with a few tablespoons of milk for a shiny, brown finish.

Jeff Masten’s Pie Crust

  • Makes one 9-inch pie crust. For a 2-crust pie, double the recipe.
  • 1 cup flour (Masten only uses Gold Medal flour, unbleached. His mother told him to.)
  • 1/3 cup lard
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 2 to 4 Tbsp. water
  • Chill the lard at least 4 hours. Sift flour and salt together. Cut the lard in pieces. Add half the lard to the flour and cut in with a pastry blender until it looks like corn meal.
  • Then add the other half of lard and cut it in, leaving the pieces bigger. (“The first blending stirs up enough gluten to make the crust hold together; the second ensures flakiness.”) Masten spins the stainless steel bowl as he cuts the fat and flour together.
  • Using a fork, stir in water, dribble by dribble, until the dough clumps. Knead lightly and briefly on a floured board. Shape into a flat round and let rest while making the filling. Roll out the dough.
  • Tips: Chef Masten sifts in the flour and salt, then cuts in the lard before adding ice water just until the dough forms a ball easily. He rolls it out on a floured board, places it in a glass pan. Apple slices are mixed with a tablespoon or so of flour, plus sugar and spices, then spooned into the crust so they mound up. He brushes the edge of the bottom crust with water, unfolds the top crust over it, pressing it to seal. Then he places the pie on a can so he can turn it as he trims and crimps the crust. Finally, he vents the crust and brushes the top with a mixture of milk and beaten egg for a shiny finish.


How I make my pies

  • Cut 1 stick of butter into teaspoon-sized chunks. Put it in the freezer. Be sure you have some ice water.
  • Put the clean, dry bowl and blade of your food processor in the fridge. Heck, if your kitchen is really hot, put your 1 cup of flour in the fridge, because cold is the first key.
  • Pulse 1 3/4 cups flour and 1 tsp. salt in the processor. Add the butter and pulse on and off for a few seconds at a time, until the mizture is crumbly. With the processor running, dribble in drops of ice water. The second the dough starts to clump, stop the water and turn off the processor. Form dough into a flat ball, wrap it in plastic and let it rest in the refridgerator at least half an hour. That’s the second key.
  • Roll it out, using as little flour as possible, to 1/4 inch thick. Fold in quarters, drape over a pan, and cut the edges.
  • Slice 5-6 cups of peaches. Mix in 3/4 cup sugar and 3/4 cup raspberries. FollowMasten’s instructions (above) for filling and topping the pie, then bake it for 10 minutes at 450, lower oven to 350 and bake for 30-35 minutes. Serve warm.

Upside Down Pie, by Les Madeleines’ Romina Rasmussen

The classic version is, of course, French. Tarte tatin is an upside-down apple pie. Les Madeleines’ Romina Rasmussen makes hers with carmalized apples flambéed in brandy in puff pastry.

  • Line a 9-inch pie plate with foil. Smear 2-3 Tbsps. softened butter over foil.
  • Press 2/3 cup toasted sliced almonds and 1/3 cup light brown sugar into butter.
  • Cover with bottom crust, then fill and cover with top crust. Seal, flute, and prick.
  • Bake at 450 for 10 minutes; lower heat to 375 and bake 35-40 minutes. Let pie cool completely before turning out and removing foil.

Crust options

  • Freeform: The French call it a galette, and you can, too. Instead of fitting your dough to a pie plate, make a freeform tart. Roll out the dough and place it on a baking sheet. Heap the filling in the middle, leaving several inches of crust bare around the perimeter. Fold those edges up, pleating as you go and leaving a center portion of the filling uncovered. Dot that filling with butter and bake.
  • Handpies: Particularly popular in the South, where they are often fried. Roll out smaller disks of dough, put a few tablespoons of filling just off-center, then fold the circle of dough in half. Be sure to brush with water and seal well. Brush with egg wash and bake.
  • Purchased: If even the thought of making your own crust makes you want to lie down and cry, never mind. Frozen dough is fine. The dough you put in the pan yourself is better than the stuff that is sold in the pan. But anything is better than a no-pie existence.

-Mary Brown Malouf

You know it's spring in Utah when cherry blossoms are in full bloom at the @utstatecapitol ⁠🌸😍⁠

Photo by @gravesstuart

Inspired by @oldsaltlake, we're celebrating #throwbackthursday with a favorite snapshot of early 20th century Salt Lake City. 🏖️⁠

Photos shared by @oldsaltlake are inspiring millennials and zoomers decades later with visions of a different city: one with easily accessible public transportation, walkable streets, local businesses (open late) and distinctive architecture.⁠

See more photos at the link in our bio. ⁠

Pictured: Women relax at what is believed to be Saltair Beach, date unknown

Why did Utah's only Titanic passenger not survive her journey?⁠

The descendants of Irene Corbett believe that the 30-year-old teacher sacrificed her life to save others. It's one of the many ways this remarkable figure bucked tradition and forged her own trail.⁠

Read more about Irene at the link in our bio!

One year ago today: a Salt Lake earthquake that even shook Moroni 👼⁠

Photo by @gravesstuart

"We must have done something right, cause you guys kept coming back."⁠

@bluepelatedinerslc, one of Salt Lake's signature spots for everyone from hungover college kids to vegan food lovers, will be closing its doors this May after more than two decades of service. It's the latest casualty in a brutal year for the restaurant industry. ⁠

Head to the link in our bio for a tribute to Blue Plate Diner. (And keep supporting your favorite local restaurants. ❤️)

Tony Caputo, a food evangelist and founding father of today’s SLC food community, passed away last night.⁠

Tony started @caputosmarket in 1997, bringing his passion for the cuisine of his heritage to Utah tables. Most days during the lunch rush you’d find Tony behind the counter slicing meat and cheeses and then, after it wound down, holding court out front. He’d often rush back behind the counter and holler over his shoulder, “you have to try this!" only to return with a sample bite of veiny cheese, a paper-thin leaf of prosciutto or a perfectly crisp amaretti cookie that he’d recently added to his menagerie of taste. For his many contributions to Salt Lake City, we awarded Tony with a Lifetime Achievement Dining Award in 2007.⁠

Today, we're sending love to @caputosmarket and the many people whose lives were touched by Tony. A full tribute is on our website now. ❤️

Why is the Pleasant Grove theme park Evermore suing one of the most powerful women in music? Long story short: a playground for those who would choose lore over folklore is taking on Taylor Swift over the name of her most recent album. Both parties have their reputation on the line in a battle of undercover Swifties and novelty mug disputes. Will Evermore hit the gold rush? Or did they cross the wrong mad woman? The full story is at the link in our bio. ...

Even in the exploration boom of the 1800s, nobody dared to explore the terrain flowing through the Green and the Colorado Rivers.⁠

That is, nobody until Major John W. Powell said the 19th Century equivalent of “Hey man, hold my beer while I try this.”⁠

Read more about his dangerous expedition at the link in our bio!⁠

Photo of Powell’s expedition courtesy Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division⁠

A brand new issue of Salt Lake magazine is coming your way! ⁠

We can't wait to share these stories with you. This issue includes our annual Blue Plate Awards celebrating those surviving and thriving in the restaurant biz. Plus, we take a road trip to Wyoming and ask why the only Utah passenger on the Titanic didn’t survive her journey.⁠

A note from our editor Jeremy Pugh, including beautiful tributes to Mary Brown Malouf from our friends in the community, is online now. Read more at the link in our bio ❤️⁠

Subscribers: Look for this issue in your mailbox soon. The magazine will be on newsstands March 1! 📬

Today, we are thrilled to announce the winners of the 2021 Blue Plate Awards! ⁠🎉⁠

These prizes honor the growers, food evangelists, grocers, servers, bakers, chefs, bartenders and restaurateurs who do more than put good food on the table—they make our community a better place to live. This year, just surviving as a local business deserves an award, but each of our Blue Plate winners did more than that. They made us grateful for every person involved in the essential act of feeding us.⁠ 🍽⁠

At the link in our bio, we have the full list of winners, a celebration of feats of COVID creativity and a tribute to restaurants we lost this year. If you’re hungry for more, pick up a copy on newsstands March 1! Plus, check out our Instagram for spotlights on some of the Blue Plate winners. ⁠

This year’s Blue Plate Awards are the first without our beloved Executive Editor Mary Brown Malouf. We dedicate them to her, our town’s biggest food fan, critic and champion. xoxomm⁠ 💙

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2021 Blue Plate Award Winner: @spicekitchenincubator for Keeping the Spice Flowing⁠

This year Spice Kitchen Incubator, already an essential resource for refugees, became, well, even more essential. 💙⁠

2021 Blue Plate Award winner: @thestore_utah for Special Deliveries ⁠

As grocery delivery becomes the new norm, The Store offers a personal touch that only an independent grocer can provide. Last March, high-risk and elderly customers began calling in their grocery lists over the phone, and The Store’s general managers personally delivered food to their homes. 💙⁠

2021 Blue Plate Award winner: @cucinaslc for Preserving Neighborhood Connection⁠

Cucina’s outdoor spaces became a place where the neighborhood could gather safely. Owner Dean Pierose offered free coffee in the mornings and encouraged his regulars to linger and commiserate together, preserving a semblance of society during a socially distanced time. 💙⁠