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    Categories: Eat & DrinkIn the Magazine

Newcomer: Hot, not haute, cocina Chile-Tepin

There’s already a wait on Friday nights. Nothing like the ones you’re used to at Red Iguana, but still, Chile-Tepin is just a few months old and I see crowds in its future. There are only two moles on the menu—a nice poblano and a verde I haven’t tried yet—so the Iguana still holds the popular majority in that category, and there’s nothing like the authentic regional dishes Matthew Lake makes over at Alamexo. Nevertheless, Chile-Tepin is a good mid-priced Mexican option whose food should make you happy whatever your expectations.

The molcajete, served in the lava rock mortar used to grind spices and make sauces, overflows with simply seared beef, shrimp, peppers, onion and chicken—dig down to the bottom to find a spicy sauce of the mingled juices. This heads a substantial list of meat-centric dishes—parilladas, carne asada, carnitas and, of course, fajitas.

But there are plenty of combination plates, too: Chicken enchiladas were a little bland, the side-dish-style cheese-filled chile relleno was good and so were cheese enchiladas. Plenty of beer and margaritas and smiling, eager-to-please service is provided by the owner Carlos Rodriguez Gallardo, who used to own La Fountain downtown. 307 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-883-9255

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