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    Categories: Eat & DrinkIn the Magazine

Newcomer SoCo serves it Southern style

Ya’ll come on over.

I never imagined “vegan” and “soul food” in the same sentence, but our current situation in the United States is forcing us to get our heads wrapped around a lot of conflicting ideas at once. So, vegan soul food it is. SoCo’s smoked black-eyed peas served over Carolina rice and topped with crunchy peanuts is certainly a protein-combining recipe for a small planet and there’s not a drop of pig fat involved—though I’m not saying it might not be better if there were.

About the chicken fried tofu I can say nothing but that it is another cultural compromise on the menu. But the kitchen need not apologize for its moist fried chicken, served bones-in along with all their flavor, or their shrimp and beautifully buttery grits or the tangy collard greens. You don’t even have to have a waffle with your chicken, which is a trend that can subside now, please. Two planks of fried catfish were more fry than fish; maybe the appetizer-size bites would be a better bet.


Crumbled Ritz would make a better topping for mac and cheese than Cheezits—that orange-powder taste just shines through—and the cornbread is sweet enough to be a dessert, though it would be no substitute for SoCo’s root beer float. Cocktail coolers come in mason jars, as do oceans of sweet tea. The really big deal? SoCo is open until 2 a.m. on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. Whoopee. 319 S. Main Street, SLC, 801-532-3946


 

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