Ryan Lowder’s New Restaurant: The Daily

If I worked at Goldman Sachs, I’d be jazzed that The Daily opened right next door. In fact, the two businesses (sort of) share a lobby. Given that Goldman Sachs slaves often work 14 to 16 hours a day, having a spot right down the elevator where you can grab a complete meal off the shelf, sit down and order or call ahead and pick-up a hot meal or a sandwich is ideal. Think of the money you’ll make because you didn’t have to leave your computer for more than ten minutes!

The Daily
Breakfast Bowl

The Daily is the latest project of Ryan Lowder and his all-star team—including baker Caroline Hargraves, and it’s very different from his previous popular restaurants (Copper Onion, Copper Kitchen, Copper Commons). There’s none of the Old World softness of the Coppers at The Daily—it’s as slick and clean and modern as it can be. Place your order, grab a number and your meal is delivered to your table. We ordered the simplest things on the menu: tomato soup, a grilled cheese sandwich and a chicken salad sandwich. Oh, and a chocolate chip cookie. Lowder moved his whole baking operation to this space, and he’s always been particular about what comes out of his oven. I was happy to see that in addition to the lovely, soft American sandwich loaf used with the chicken salad, the bakery turns out gorgeous crusty round loaves and tall flaky biscuits. When we ate there, the chicken salad (livened up with bits of pickle) sandwich was unabashedly American, and so was the great grilled cheese sandwich with a cup of tomato soup. Wait, you might say. This isn’t the imaginative food we’re used to from Lowder. It’s not. But it’s as flavorful as any bone marrow dish from a Copper. As always, ingredients are paramount. You get a clue about this from the Stumptown coffee on the deli shelves. Unfortunately, there are still pick-up problems. Our online order was five minutes late and there’s no place up front to park legally, and only

The Daily
Chicken and Rice (Khao Man Gui)

one spot to hesitate, so that’s stressful—especially because Main Street is nearly unnavigable now. So is the online Daily menu. And back at the office, the food didn’t live up to expectation: the chicken salad was made of curried unrecognizable chicken bits, the chicken on the plate was flavorless. Only the loaded fried taters with cheese, bacon and sour cream and Asian-style pork belly sandwich were thoroughly satisfying. Oh, and the chocolate chip cookie.

Of course, if I worked at Goldman Sachs, none of this would be a problem.

Mary Brown Malouf
Mary Brown Maloufhttps://www.saltlakemagazine.com/
Mary Brown Malouf is the late Executive Editor of Salt Lake magazine and Utah's expert on local food and dining. She still does not, however, know how to make a decent cup of coffee.

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