“Amaro tends to be a spirit that’s celebrated within the bar industry, but is misunderstood by the average drinker,” says Jordon Strang, HSL Bar Manager and co-creator of pop-up group Bitter Lovers. “I want to enlighten the Salt Lake community that it isn’t just that nasty fernet your bartender friend made you try or that overly sweet Paper Plane you can’t get down.” Determined to set the record straight, Strang has teamed up with local culinary great Jozef Ezra to offer imbibers ephemeral evenings of Amari-focused sips and bites at bars across Salt Lake City.
Often considered a secondary spirit in classic concoctions like the Negroni, a Black Manhattan or an Aperol Spritz, Amari has steadily gained favor in America over the years. You might’ve first encountered the herbal elixir after eating your fill of Italian fare when glasses of digestif are handed out to settle the stomach and sip ritualistically. Or, perhaps your first experience was not so civilized and involved downing a few Jagerbombs amongst a feral group of pre-gamers (guilty).
Now, however, the spirit is finding new favor amongst creative bartenders who are excited by its inherent versatility. Strang, a longtime lover of Amari, advocates for the liquor in gusto: “Amaro is my absolute favorite spirit category because it is so diverse. By definition, Amaro just needs to have one bittering element and one sweet element, so you see a huge spectrum of products ranging from stiff, sobering beverages to bright, cotton-candy-like drinks.” The flexible nature of Amaro is, as Strang puts it, “infinitely riffable,” and makes a unique base for cocktails fit for all kinds of drinkers.
After obsessing over Amaro and experimenting with it during his everyday bartending, Strang recently connected with fellow bitter lover Joseph Ezra to form a pop-up series dedicated to the spirit. The idea was to put together a curated cocktail list that showcases various Amaros and serve them alongside complimentary bites and fun music. But instead of taking over their host bar completely, Bitter Lovers collaborates with the bars to create a cohesive experience. “I take the opportunity to work with bartenders in my community that I look up to or appreciate, and create a one-of-a-kind menu with them,” Strang says. Each pop-up is a team effort with Jordon and Joseph at the helm and a host bartender who all work together to create a menu that stays true to the host’s vibe while incorporating Strang’s Amaro focus.
Since their first iteration in April, Bitter Lovers has collaborated with bars like Citizens Cocktails & Kitchen, Copper Common, Ruin and Post Office Place. Each pop-up presents a fun challenge to Strang, who describes the first series at Citizens as “a chance to lean into the more feminine and delicate side of cocktailing and serve a menu that was spritzy, bright and beautiful.”
Find the next Bitter Lovers event @bitterlovers.slc
In May, Strang took the Bitter Lovers X Copper Common pop-up in a different direction, “Copper Common to me has always been very refined, sexy and intentional, so we took a more stirred and boozy approach to the menu and added a bunch of natural Italian wine.” Strang put a tiki twist on the series in July when he teamed up with ACME/Remora bartender Sam Miller. Together the crew hosted an evening of Waterpocket spirits and tropical sips at RUIN downtown.
Bitter Lovers aren’t the only group that has taken to the format of pop-ups, and Strang sees that as a sign of a nightlife community that has grown up. Casting aside an us vs. them mentality, industry leaders are collaborating now more than ever to uplift each other and create unique experiences that bring guests out in throngs. “I feel like this community is good at celebrating itself, “ Strang says. “And we deserve to be celebrated because we get overlooked for being a control state and a lack of late-night spaces.”
And, as the trend toward one-night-only events continues upward, one clear thing is that there is plenty of room for everyone. Whether you’re a bartender who is looking to share your love of obscure spirits, or a chef seeking for a temporary outlet for an experimental menu, this city has a lot of love to go around and plenty of hosts that gladly offer up their platforms. As Jordon contends, “If you have a vision and an idea that you’re excited about, share it. If you build it, they will come.”
Find an upcoming pop-up series from Bitter Lovers by following their socials @bitterlovers.slc.
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